Alexander McQueen part 4

Kiedy McQueen zaprezentował swoja kolekcję "Kuba Rozpruwacz", jedną z osob zaproszonych na pokaz była ówczesna edytor brytyjskiego Vogue'a- Isabella Blow. Pokaz wywarł na niej ogromne wrażenie i szybko zorientowała się, ze McQueen ma wielki talent. "Od pierwszej kreacji widać było, że mamy tu do czynienia z projektantem o ogromnym potencjale", przyznała. Skontaktowała się z nim po pokazie i zakupiła kilka jego kreacji. W jednym z numerów brytyjskiego Vogue'a ukazala sie sesja zdjęciowa, na której Blow ubrana jest w ubrania McQueen'a.
Tymczasem McQueenowi nie powodziło się zbyt dobrze. Pomimo dorywczych prac, ciągle brakowało mu pieniędzy, pobierał nawet zasilek dla bezrobotnych. Zamieszkal razem z kolegą ze studiów Unglessem. Wkrótce po założeniu swojej własnej firmy, McQueen został przedstawiony jednej z edytorek brytyjskiego Vogue'a- Tiinie Laakkonen. Ta zachwycona jego ubraniami, określiła go "następnym Yves Saint Laurentem". Pierwsza kolekcja McQueena po założeniu własnej marki, zaprezentowana została w październiku 1993 roku i nazywała się Nihilizm. Skomentował ją dziennikarz Jake Hall.
Na uwagę zasługuje fakt, że już w jednej ze swoich pierwszych kolekcji, McQueen miał dość wyraźna wizję swojej marki i swojego stylu. Patrząc na pozniejsze kolekcje projektanta, widać, że jego styl ewoluuje, ale jednoczesnie jest spójny z tym, co zostało zaprezentowane poprzednio. Na poczatku kariery McQueena, prasa brytyjska nie odnosiła się do niego z wielkim entuzjazmem.






When McQueen's graduation collection "Jack the Ripper Stalks his Victims" was presented, one of the guests, who attended the show, was British Vogue editor, Isabella Blow. She was extremely impressed with the collection and realized almost immediately that McQueen was an expert in highly flattering tailoring: "It was obvious from the first outfit that here was someone of enormous potential and great gifts", she said. Blow contacted McQueen after the show and expressed her interest in buying some of his pieces. In one of the issues of British Vogue, she appeared in several pictures, taken in her family estate, dressed head to toe in McQueen clothes.
In the meantime, McQueen moved in with his friend Ungless and despite some freelance work, was always short on cash. In fact, he was collecting welfare. Eventually McQueen started his own company but the beginnings were tough, he would make several pieces here and there and sell it but it was not enough to give him a steady income. Soon after starting his own company, McQueen was introduced by Blow to one of the editors at British Vogue, Tiina Laakkonen. He was making clothes for her and she would call him "next Saint Laurent".
One of McQueen's early shows, staged in October in 1993, was called "Nihilism": "The first collection was an introduction to McQueen's intelligent, philosophical take on fashion design (...) The concept of Nihilism is visually represented throughout the collection via translucent fabrics; sheer materials that glide over the female form, allowing a glimpse at the flesh beneath (...) The McQueen woman is also a sexual being- but as opposed to the flattering silhouette of an Alaia dress or the romantic curves of Dolce&Gabbana, McQueen's take on sexuality is far more aggressive (...) Overall, the collection was a beautiful introduction to Alexander McQueen and his method of design. The exaggerated silhouettes, the provocative behaviour of the models and the balance between aggression and romance were all to become signatures of the designer and his work" (Jake Hall).
It was quite remarkable that from such an early stage in his career as independent designer, McQueen had clearly defined aesthetic. His clothes would weave from his unparalleled imagination, his shows would convey a strong sense of disenchantment with the world. One of his signature pieces was a "Bumster", a pair of pants with waistline so low-cut that it revealed the top crack of the bum.
At this early stage of McQueen's career, there were many people, journalists, who did not like his style. Marion Hume in "The Independent" wrote after the show: "Alexander McQueen's debut was a horror show...McQueen (...) has a view that speaks of battered women, of violent lives, of grinding daily existences offset by wild, drug-enhanced nocturnal dives into clubs where the dress-code is semi-naked".

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