Alaia part 2
Another exhibition, simply called "Alaia", was opened very recently (and will run until January 26th, 2014) at the newly renovated fashion museum Palais Galliera in Paris. "There is no sense of present or future in Azzedine's work", Olivier Saillard, the museum's director and the curator of the exhibition, said earlier in the day on a tour of the show. That's why you can look at the 74 garments on display (with another half-dozen or so at the Musee d'Art Moderne across from the Galliera), and nothing looks out of date. Everything is timeless: the black leather and metal pieces from the early '80s, the hooded, bias-cut knit halter dress worn by Grace Jones, the African-inspired dresses made of raffia fringe and shells, the magnificent tailored garments from different decades" (Cathy Horyn in "The New York Times").
"The sculptor of women's bodies" keeps a very low profile. The few collections that were presented on the runways during last three decades, were usually unveiled once Paris Fashion Week was over. Alaia mentioned several times in different interviews that he cares the most about the satisfaction of his clients and his main goal is to make them beautiful and feel fantastic. He does not have to bother with wooing the fashion editors with free clothes.
"The best compliment I ever received was when models asked to keep my dresses instead of getting paid. These girls were giving me the most important years of their lives, so I accepted with joy".
Alaia's clothes are made of sumptuous materials and he has been buying fabrics from the same mill in Italy for last 30 years. Most of his fabrics are knitted, not sewn.
"I first need to work on the fabric: I need to cut it, think about the shape, drape it on the bust- reflect on it. I make every piece with my own hands".
Alaia's dresses are cut exquisitely, in such a way that they flatter female figure. The brand, which generates about $63 milion a year, is perceived as one of the finest. Alaia stayed away from bizarre tacky fashion, never added lower-price items to be in step with less affluent generation. His dresses are selling so well that last year Barney's New York (at its New York location) doubled Alaia space. In 2000 Alaia sold his company to Prada Group, but bought it back 7 years later. I believe Prada might be still responsible for making Alaia's shoes and handbags. The Swiss-based luxury group Richemont is the current owner of the brand.
Alaia nie fascynuje się blichtrem świata mody. Kilka kolekcji, które zaprezentował na przestrzeni ostatnich 30 lat, pokazał po zakończeniu paryskiego Tygodnia Mody. Projektant wspomniał kilkakrotnie w różnych wywiadach, że największą satysfakcję sprawia mu zadowolenie klientek, sprawienie, że nie tylko wyglądają, ale również czują się pięknie. Nie musi "przekupywać" swoimi sukienkami redaktorek pism modowych. "Kiedy modelki występujące na moich pokazach chcą otrzymać moje sukienki zamiast zapłaty- jest to dla mnie największy komplement".
Sukienki Alaia robione są z doskonałej jakości materiałów, większość z nich jest tkana, nie szyta. Projektant kupuje tkaniny w tej samej włoskiej szwalni od 30 lat. "Najpierw pracuję nad materiałem, odpowiednim cięciem, myślę o kształcie, upinam. Każde ubranie wychodzi spod moich własnych rąk".