Fashion & Technology - part III

Chalayan - Airmail dress

Certain designers are considered very experimental and prone to using all kinds of technological innovations in their collections. Let's look at one of them: Hussein Chalayan (born in Cyprus but living in UK) and let's read what he has to say about his approach to fashion: "As almost everything in fashion has been done, I feel that technology is the only thing left to create originality in fashion. I work in technology in order to communicate an idea- it is always project specific and it doesn't always require mechanics. My 'airmail' dress, for example, was made out of unrippable paper that could be folded, put in an envelope and mailed with instructions as to how it could be adjusted to fit the wearer". Twice British designer of the year is the creator of a very unique dress, emiting spectacular red lasers (I believe it was a part of either spring/summer 2007 or autumn/winter 2007 collection). One of the dresses at his autumn/winter 2007 collection was embroidered with Swarovski crystals with flickering LED lights. "In 2000, he created a remote-controlled dress made from aviation-strength fibreglass with panels that gracefully lift at the flick of a switch to reveal gently gathered tulle petticoats" (Harriet Quick).

At the current exhibition at the Fashion Institute of Technology, the video of Chalayan's spring/summer 2007 show is being shown. Thanks to a computer system designed by 2D3D, few of Chalayan's dresses at the show "automatically morphe through three decades of fashion".

Isseay Miyake - A-POC

Issey Miyake is another forward-thinking designer. He came up with clothes made from one piece of recycled polyester that, when not being used, are totally flat. For a while, he has been working on a project, called "A Piece of Cloth", which is a seamless one piece of fabric that could be altered by a customer.

Dutch brand "Freedom of Creation" used laser to sculpt 3D dress (the dress is on display at the above mentioned exhibition).

Mr. Talbot, at Talbot Runhof, is working with "fabric used be the automobile industry as a support material between upholstery and metal or impact-resistant plastics" (Christina Binkley).

Technology affects all aspects of fashion, one of them is runway set. Gareth Pugh explained how he is using technology to make his fashion shows unique and different: "Take fashion shows: historically they were only seen by a small invited audience or in still images circulated after the show was over. But I have made films with director Ruth Hogben that have proven to me that an innovative concept can provide just as much impact as a live show, if not more. For example, the film we made for Italian trade show Pitti Uomo presented the collection via a video installation projected on the ceiling of a 14th-century chapel-our version of a Renaissance fresco. I think it really surpassed anything we could have done with a live show".

The next step is biological manufacturing of fabric-the fusion of biology with technology to grow fabrics from plants.

 

 

Hussein Chalaya - Airmail Dress

Niektórzy projektanci mody chętnie eksperymentują z technologicznymi nowinkami. Jednym z nich jest Hussein Chalayan, który w następujący sposób skomentował związek, jaki istnieje pomiędzy modą i technologią: "As almost everything in fashion has been done, I feel that technology is the only thing left to create originality in fashion. I work with technology in order to communicate an idea- it is always project specific and it doesn't always require mechanics. My 'airmail' dress, for example, was made out of unrippable paper that could be folded, put in an envelope and mailed with instructions as to how it could be adjusted to fit the wearer". Zdobywca dwóch nagród dla najlepszego brytyjskiego projektanta roku, stworzył w 2007 roku sukienkę, która emituje czerwone lasery. Jedna z sukienek z kolekcji na jesień/zimę 2007 była pokryta kryształkami Swarovskiego i migocącymi światełkami LED. "In 2000, he created a remote-controlled dress made from aviation-strength fibreglass, with panels that gracefully lift at the flick of a switch to reveal gently gathered tulle petticoats" (brytyjska dziennikarka Harriet Quick).

Na wystawie w Fashion Institute of Technology obejrzeć można pokaz Chalayan'a na wiosnę/lato 2007. Dzięki specjalnym technikom komputerowym, kilka sukienek z pokazu "automatically morphe through three decades of fashion".

Issey Miyake - A-POC

Innym projektantem, który przychodzi na myśl, kiedy przywołujemy pojęcie mody "technologicznie zaawansowanej" jest Japończyk Issey Miyake. Stworzył on na przykład ubrania, które zrobione są z jednego kawałka poliestru i kiedy się je złoży, są zupełnie płaskie. Miyake przez pewien czas pracował nad projektem pt. "A Piece of Cloth", który polegał na stworzeniu jednego kawałka materiału (bez szwów), z którego klient mógł wycinać sobie dowolne ubrania.

Duńska marka Freedom of Creation przy użyciu lasera stworzyła twójwymiarową sukienkę, która rownież znajduje się na obecnej wystawie.

Z kolei pan Talbot, projektant z wspomnianej wcześniej niemieckiej marki Talbot Runhof, przy tworzeniu swoich ubrań korzysta z materiałów, które wykorzystuje się w przemyśle samochodowym- "fabric used by the automobile industry as a support material between upholstery and metal or impact-resistant plastics" (Christina Binkley).

Issey Miyake - A Piece Of Cloth

Warto pamietać, że nowoczesna technologia jest wykorzystywana nie tylko przy tworzeniu ubrań, ale również przy tworzeniu scenografii do pokazów mody. Projektant Gareth Pugh doskonale opisuje sposób, w jaki technologia wpływa na pokazy mody: "Take fashion shows: historically they were only seen by a small invited audience or in still images circulated after the show was over. But I have made films with director Ruth Hogben that have proven to me that an innovative concept can provide just as much impact as a live show, if not more. For example, the film we made for Italian trade show Pitti Uomo presented the collection via a video installation projected on the ceiling of a 14th -century chapel-our version of a Renaissance fresco. I think it really surpassed anything we could have done with a live show".

Kolejnym krokiem jest połączenie biologii z nanotechnologią i "hodowanie" tkanin.

 

Ewa Bytomska

 

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