Hollywood and Fashion - part I

 

I picked the topic of today's article after looking at two of the fashion shows in Paris- Jean Paul Gaultier and Victor & Rolf. Jean Paul Gaultier's collection was "an homage to all the pop stars of the eighties", like Madonna, David Bowie or Annie Lennox and received, totally justifiably, mostly negative reviews. "Only a few tux suits and raffia dresses came close to what Mr Gaultier is capable of, and even then they soon evolved into body suits with bumster trousers that left great swaths between the hip and the thigh exposed (the fleshy part most women don't want seen), and peekaboo crochet numbers" (Vanessa Friedman). "(...), given that no one in their right mind is going to step out into the street in a one-leg Ziggy Stardust jumpsuit or a little sheer something from the Blonde Ambition tour, the fancy-dress element was a little marginalizing" (Tim Blanks). I find the collection a huge disappointment, most of the dresses were kitschy and some of them simply ugly and as someone eloquently pointed out- "aesthetically bankrupt". It is a pity that only a few outfits came close to what Jean Paul Gaultier, as a truly talented designer, is capable of creating. I decided to mention the collection, however, to remind us that pop singers and Hollywood stars could be a great inspirations for fashion designers.

Victor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren (the duo behind Victor & Rolf brand) looked to "the Golden Age of Hollywood" for their inspiration for spring/summer 2013 collection. They came up with several floor-sweeping pleated gowns, some of them embellished with crystals. Designers decided to marry cut mirror with tulle. Few dresses were slightly overpowered by additional motifs, applique roses and bows , three-dimensional embroideries. There was at least one hiccup- "bathrobe-fuzzy" pink coat worn by model Kati Nescher.

In a few days (on October 20th and until January 27th of 2013) those living in or visiting London will be able to admire a great new exhibition about costumes in Hollywood, at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Over 100 authentic costumes of iconic movie characters will be displayed.

"Costume designers are storytellers, historians, social commentators and anthropologists. Movies are about people, and costume design plays a pivotal role in bringing these people to life. 'Hollywood Costume' illuminates the costume designer's process in the creation of character from script to screen including the changing social and technological context in which they have worked over the last century" (The curator of the exhibition Deborah Nadoolman Landis at http://www.vam.ac.uk/).

Some of the clothes were borrowed from different museums and private collections. Outfits from Avatar, Pirates of the Caribbean and The Wizard of Oz will be displayed for viewing. The famous green dress made out of curtain, worn by Scarlett O'Hara (Vivien Leigh) in "Gone with the wind" will be available as well.

 

Temat dzisiejszego artykułu nasunął mi się po obejrzeniu dwóch kolekcji, zaprezentowanych podczas paryskiego Tygodnia Mody. Jedną z nich jest kolekcja Jeana Paula Gaultier, drugą przygotowana przez duet Victor & Rolf. Jean Paul Gaultier postanowił oddać hołd piosenkarkom (i piosenkarzom) muzyki pop z lat 80'tych, takim jak Madonna, David Bowie, czy Annie Lennox. Kolekcja została (całkiem słusznie zresztą) mocno skrytykowana. "Only a few tux suits and raffia dresses came close to what Mr Gaultier is capable of, and even then they soon evolved into body suits with bumster trousers that left great swaths between the hip and the thigh exposed (the fleshy part most women don't want seen), and peekaboo crochet numbers" (Vanessa Friedman). "(...), given that no one in their right mind is going to step out into the street in a one-leg Ziggy Stardust jumpsuit or a little sheer something from the Blonde Ambition tour, the fancy-dress element was a little marginalizing" (Tim Blanks). Jean Paul Gaultier jako świetny i utalentowany projektant, tym razem mocno rozczarował. Jego wiosenno-letnia kolekcja jest wyjątkowo nieudana. Pomijając fakt, że wiele kreacji jest kiczowatych, sukienki przypominające sieć rybacką, czy kombinezony w stylu piżam są po prostu brzydkie. Postanowiłam jednak o niej wspomnieć, gdyż jest ona dobrym przykładem na to, jak świetną inspiracją mogą być dla projektantów gwiazdy sceny czy Hollywood.

O inspirowaniu się "złotymi latami Hollywood" wspominają Victor Horsting i Ralf Snoeren. Na wybiegu pojawiło się kilka długich, plisowanych sukni, ozdobionych kryształkami. Olbrzymie róże wykonane ze szkiełek i kokardy przyćmiły kilka innych kreacji. Niestety zdarzyło się również małe "potknięcie"- różowy płaszcz, przypominający szlafrok frotte, który miała na sobie modelka Kati Nescher.

Już za kilka dni (od 20 października do 27 stycznia) osoby odwiedzające Londyn będą mogły zapoznać się z piękną wystawą w Muzeum Victoria and Albert, poświęconą kreacjom hollywoodzkim. Ich zdobycie zabrało sporo czasu, część strojów wypożyczono z innych muzeów lub prywatnych kolekcji.

"Costume designers are storytellers, historians, social commentators and anthropologists. Movies are about people, and costume design plays a pivotal role in bringing these people to life. 'Hollywood Costume' illuminates the costume designer's process in the creation of character from script to screen including the changing social and technological context in which they have worked over the last century" (kurator wystawy Deborah Nadoolman Landis na stronie www.vam.ac.uk).

Na wystawie zaprezentowane zostaną m.in. stroje z filmów "Awiator", "Piraci z Karaibów" oraz "Czarnoksiężnik z krainy Oz", a także słynna zielona suknia, uszyta z zasłony, którą miała na sobie Scarlett O'Hara (Vivien Leigh) w filmie "Przeminęło z wiatrem".

Ewa Bytomska

 

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